Difference between revisions of "Glossary"

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* '''Backing off''': The action of a wave as it passes from shallow water into deeper water closer to shore. The wave becomes less steep, or the broken whitewater fades away. Tends to occur shoreward of offshore reefs or sandbars. The wave may reform and break again in even shallower water closer to shore.
* '''Backing off''': The action of a wave as it passes from shallow water into deeper water closer to shore. The wave becomes less steep, or the broken whitewater fades away. Tends to occur shoreward of offshore reefs or sandbars. The wave may reform and break again in even shallower water closer to shore.
* '''Backwash''': A reflected wave, caused by water pushed up onto a steep grade of beach, which then rushes back out to sea against the general wave movement. This can create spectacular explosive wave effects, as the backwash and incoming waves collide.
* '''Backwash''': A reflected wave, caused by water pushed up onto a steep grade of beach, which then rushes back out to sea against the general wave movement. This can create spectacular explosive wave effects, as the backwash and incoming waves collide.
* '''Beach break''': An area where waves that are good enough to surf break just off a beach, or on a sandbar farther out
* '''Bathymetry''': The measurement of depths of water in oceans, seas, and lakes. The topography of the ocean floor or underwater bottom.
* '''Blown out''': When waves that would otherwise be good have been rendered too choppy by wind
* '''Beach break''': Waves breaking over a sand bottom.
* '''Bomb''': An exceptionally large set wave
* '''Blown out''': A surf condition caused by strong onshore winds, which create ugly chop on the wave faces and through the lineup. Generally considered unridable.
* '''Bomb''': Bomb-A very large set wave, well beyond the session's normal wave size.
* '''Bombora''': Australian term for big waves breaking further out and isolated by deep water. Also called bombie or cloudbreak.
* '''Bowl''': A section of a given wave in which the line of the wave bends, or appears to bend, toward the shore. The bend creates added intensity, often causing the wave to build into a peak, or grow hollower or steeper throughout its general curve. Nicknamed "bowl" because the wave suddenly becomes concave from a variety of angles, not just from the base or lip.
* '''Break Line''': The line where waves begin to break. All things being equal, waves will begin to break when they reach water depth equaling approximately 1.3 times the wave face height.
* '''Breaking''': Breaking-When a wave passes from deep water to shallow water it steepens as the wave energy is forced upward. We call this "shoaling". With increasing steepness, the wave face finally becomes too unstable and the crest or top part of the wave tumbles or "breaks" down the face of the wave.
* '''Broken up''': A surf condition in which waves approach the beach and break apart into different peaks/lines with a clear separation between the ridable shoulders. This is usually caused by two swells from different directions and or periods overlapping the same break. Also called "scattered peaks".
* '''Bumpy''': Bumps on the ocean surface created by wind, usually between 6-10 knots in velocity. Definitely not clean but not choppy or blown out either.
* '''Buoy''': A floating object moored to the bottom of the ocean to mark a channel, anchor, shoal, rock, etc. Buoys with sensitive meteorological and oceanographic instruments are also moored in deep-water locations to measure wind, weather, and wave information. This information is used to help forecasters monitor the progress of swells as they pass the buoy location.
* '''Choppy, chop''': Waves that are subjected to cross winds have a rough surface (chop) and do not break cleanly
* '''Choppy, chop''': Waves that are subjected to cross winds have a rough surface (chop) and do not break cleanly
* '''Close-out''': A wave is said to be "closed-out" when it breaks at every position along the face at once, and therefore cannot be surfed
* '''Close-out''': A wave is said to be "closed-out" when it breaks at every position along the face at once, and therefore cannot be surfed
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* '''Backside''': Surfing with your back to the wave, a goofyfoot going right, or a regularfoot going left. (Also called 'backhand'.)
* '''Backside''': Surfing with your back to the wave, a goofyfoot going right, or a regularfoot going left. (Also called 'backhand'.)
* '''Bail/Bail out''': To abandon or ditch one's surfboard before getting wiped out by the wave, either paddling out, or while riding the wave.
* '''Bail/Bail out''': To abandon or ditch one's surfboard before getting wiped out by the wave, either paddling out, or while riding the wave.
* '''Bottom turn''': The first turn at the bottom of the wave
* '''Barrel''': The space inside a breaking wave between the lip and face. A surfer may be completely hidden from view during a barrel ride, especially from shore. One of the most difficult, best and most enjoyable acts in surfing, but often very difficult to complete due to changing variations in every different wave. Another name for tube.
* '''Bodysurf''': The act of catching waves by swimming without a board. The most original form of surfing. In shallow water bodysurfers can push off the bottom, but usually need swim-fins to catch waves in deep water.
* '''Bottom Turn''': A turn made at the bottom of a wave, following the drop down the wave face. Often (but not always) the first real move of a ride, a bottom turn is a sweeping, powerful move that enables the surfer to establish speed and direction for the ride. The bottom turn also establishes or re-sets the rhythm of turns to be completed during the course of the ride. Probably the most important turn in surfing as it sets up all other maneuvers.
* '''Carve''': Turns (often accentuated)
* '''Carve''': Turns (often accentuated)
* '''Caught inside''': When a surfer is paddling out and cannot get past the breaking surf to the safer part of the ocean (the outside) in order to find a wave to ride
* '''Caught inside''': When a surfer is paddling out and cannot get past the breaking surf to the safer part of the ocean (the outside) in order to find a wave to ride
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==People==
==People==
* '''Bodyboarder''': One who rides waves lying down on a bodyboard. Often beginners, although some bodyboarders, like Hawaii's Mike Stewart, are considered among the best surfers in the world.
* '''Grom/Grommet''': A young surfer
* '''Grom/Grommet''': A young surfer
* '''Hang-loose''': Generally meaning "catch that wave" or "well done". This message can be sent by raising a hand with the thumb and pinkie fingers up while the index, middle and ring fingers remain folded over the palm, then twisting the wrist back and forth as if waving goodbye, see [[shaka sign]]
* '''Hang-loose''': Generally meaning "catch that wave" or "well done". This message can be sent by raising a hand with the thumb and pinkie fingers up while the index, middle and ring fingers remain folded over the palm, then twisting the wrist back and forth as if waving goodbye, see [[shaka sign]]
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* '''Alaia''': A type of surfboard, made of wood and usually around six feet in length, used by Hawaiian commoners to surf prior to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in the late 19th century
* '''Alaia''': A type of surfboard, made of wood and usually around six feet in length, used by Hawaiian commoners to surf prior to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in the late 19th century
* '''Balsa''': Light, porous wood used through the 1940s and 50s as a key core material for surfboard manufacture. Balsa grows only in Ecuador and must be imported to the USA; it became popular when laminating techniques allowed surfboard cores to be sealed from contact with water. By the early 1960s it had been largely replaced by polyurethane foam, but is still used for some big wave guns and collector pieces.
* '''Balsa''': Light, porous wood used through the 1940s and 50s as a key core material for surfboard manufacture. Balsa grows only in Ecuador and must be imported to the USA; it became popular when laminating techniques allowed surfboard cores to be sealed from contact with water. By the early 1960s it had been largely replaced by polyurethane foam, but is still used for some big wave guns and collector pieces.
* '''Blank''': The block from which a surfboard is created
* '''Bamboo''': Can be used in thin laminar sheets as a replacement for fiberglass in the surfboard manufacturing process; i.e., Bamboo Surfboards Australia.
* '''Blank''': The original block of foam used to shape a surfboard. A blank often comes from a pre-shaped mold with a basic outline and rocker depending on the length and type surfboard being shaped. Usually made from polyurethane foam.
* '''Bodyboard''': A small soft foam board used primarily with swim fins, and ridden prone (occasionally drop knee). Originated with the Morey Boogie-board invented by Tom Morey in the 70's.
* '''Bonzer''': A surfboard design first invented by the Campbell brothers, Duncan and Malcolm, in 1971. Forerunner of today's popular single-to-double concave bottom shape.
* '''Bottom''': Bottom-The underside of a surfboard.
* '''Bottom Curve''': (see rocker)
* '''Buckle''': (see crease)
* '''Deck''': The upper surface of the board
* '''Deck''': The upper surface of the board
* '''Ding''': A dent or hole in the surface of the board resulting from accidental damage
* '''Ding''': A dent or hole in the surface of the board resulting from accidental damage
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==Clothing==
==Clothing==
* '''Asymmetrical zippers''': Wetsuit zippers with staggered teeth, invented to keep a tighter seal and let less water in. Common in newer zippered suits
* '''Asymmetrical zippers''': Wetsuit zippers with staggered teeth, invented to keep a tighter seal and let less water in. Common in newer zippered suits
* '''Beavertail''': Early wetsuit design in the '70s with a large flap affixed to the suit's lower back, wrapped under the crotch and secured in front. Designed to hold the suit in place, the innovation didn't really work and surfers took to letting the slab dangle. (Hence the term, "tail".)
* '''Blindstitched''': Seam that's glued together, then sewn halfway through the material so you don't see the stitching on the other side; generally on higher-end suits and considered flexible, fairly watertight and durable.
* '''Board shorts''': Shorts originally developed for aquatic sports, specifically for surfing
* '''Board shorts''': Shorts originally developed for aquatic sports, specifically for surfing
* '''Rash guard''': A close-fitting top for swimming or surfing, worn under a wetsuit, over swimwear, or alone
* '''Rash guard''': A close-fitting top for swimming or surfing, worn under a wetsuit, over swimwear, or alone

Revision as of 15:00, 21 December 2014

This glossary of surfing includes some of the extensive vocabulary used to describe various aspects of the sport of surfing as described in literature on the subject. In some cases terms have spread to a wider cultural use. These terms were originally coined by people who were directly involved in the sport of surfing.

About the water

  • A-frame: A peak-shaped wave, with left and right shoulders, and the highest point of the crest in the middle of the peak
  • Artificial Reef: An underwater structure man-made for one or more reasons: 1) aiding ailing ocean ecologies by giving sea fauna a home/feeding ground or 2) creating quality surf where there's otherwise none or 3) helping with beach erosion by lessening impact of swells pushing sand away from shore
  • Backing off: The action of a wave as it passes from shallow water into deeper water closer to shore. The wave becomes less steep, or the broken whitewater fades away. Tends to occur shoreward of offshore reefs or sandbars. The wave may reform and break again in even shallower water closer to shore.
  • Backwash: A reflected wave, caused by water pushed up onto a steep grade of beach, which then rushes back out to sea against the general wave movement. This can create spectacular explosive wave effects, as the backwash and incoming waves collide.
  • Bathymetry: The measurement of depths of water in oceans, seas, and lakes. The topography of the ocean floor or underwater bottom.
  • Beach break: Waves breaking over a sand bottom.
  • Blown out: A surf condition caused by strong onshore winds, which create ugly chop on the wave faces and through the lineup. Generally considered unridable.
  • Bomb: Bomb-A very large set wave, well beyond the session's normal wave size.
  • Bombora: Australian term for big waves breaking further out and isolated by deep water. Also called bombie or cloudbreak.
  • Bowl: A section of a given wave in which the line of the wave bends, or appears to bend, toward the shore. The bend creates added intensity, often causing the wave to build into a peak, or grow hollower or steeper throughout its general curve. Nicknamed "bowl" because the wave suddenly becomes concave from a variety of angles, not just from the base or lip.
  • Break Line: The line where waves begin to break. All things being equal, waves will begin to break when they reach water depth equaling approximately 1.3 times the wave face height.
  • Breaking: Breaking-When a wave passes from deep water to shallow water it steepens as the wave energy is forced upward. We call this "shoaling". With increasing steepness, the wave face finally becomes too unstable and the crest or top part of the wave tumbles or "breaks" down the face of the wave.
  • Broken up: A surf condition in which waves approach the beach and break apart into different peaks/lines with a clear separation between the ridable shoulders. This is usually caused by two swells from different directions and or periods overlapping the same break. Also called "scattered peaks".
  • Bumpy: Bumps on the ocean surface created by wind, usually between 6-10 knots in velocity. Definitely not clean but not choppy or blown out either.
  • Buoy: A floating object moored to the bottom of the ocean to mark a channel, anchor, shoal, rock, etc. Buoys with sensitive meteorological and oceanographic instruments are also moored in deep-water locations to measure wind, weather, and wave information. This information is used to help forecasters monitor the progress of swells as they pass the buoy location.
  • Choppy, chop: Waves that are subjected to cross winds have a rough surface (chop) and do not break cleanly
  • Close-out: A wave is said to be "closed-out" when it breaks at every position along the face at once, and therefore cannot be surfed
  • Face: The forward-facing surface of a breaking wave
  • Flat: No waves
  • Gas chamber: The effect when a big wave rolls over, enclosing a temporary horizontal tunnel of air with the surfer inside
  • Glassy: When the waves (and general surface of the water) are extremely smooth and glossy, not disturbed by wind
  • Gnarly: Large, difficult, and dangerous (usually applied to waves)
  • Line-up: The area where most of the waves are starting to break and where most surfers are positioned in order to catch a wave
  • Off the hook: A positive phrase meaning the waves are a very good size and shape
  • Outside: The part of the water's surface that is farther from the shore than the area where most waves are breaking
  • Point break: Area where an underwater rocky point creates waves that are suitable for surfing
  • Sections: The parts of a breaking wave that are rideable
  • Set waves: A group of waves of larger size within a swell
  • Shoulder: The unbroken part of the wave
  • Stoked: happy, excited
  • Shorey/shore break: A wave that lasts all the way to the shore before crashing
  • Surf's up: A phrase used when there are waves worth surfing
  • Swell: A series of waves that have traveled from their source in a distant storm, and that will start to break once the swell reaches shallow enough water
  • Whitewater: After the wave has finished breaking, it continues on as a ridge of turbulence and foam, the whitewater

Techniques and maneuvers

  • Air/Aerial: Riding the board briefly into the air above the wave, landing back upon the wave, and continuing to ride
  • Angling: Original step toward performance in surfing. Refers to a surfer's riding across the wave face at an angle to the shoreline, rather than riding straight toward the beach
  • Backdoor: (verb) The act of taking off deep behind the peak or a section on a hollow wave, and surfing through the barrel or tube of the wave to the other side of the peak. (Also a proper noun: the short intense right peeling off the reverse side of Pipeline in Hawaii.)
  • Backside: Surfing with your back to the wave, a goofyfoot going right, or a regularfoot going left. (Also called 'backhand'.)
  • Bail/Bail out: To abandon or ditch one's surfboard before getting wiped out by the wave, either paddling out, or while riding the wave.
  • Barrel: The space inside a breaking wave between the lip and face. A surfer may be completely hidden from view during a barrel ride, especially from shore. One of the most difficult, best and most enjoyable acts in surfing, but often very difficult to complete due to changing variations in every different wave. Another name for tube.
  • Bodysurf: The act of catching waves by swimming without a board. The most original form of surfing. In shallow water bodysurfers can push off the bottom, but usually need swim-fins to catch waves in deep water.
  • Bottom Turn: A turn made at the bottom of a wave, following the drop down the wave face. Often (but not always) the first real move of a ride, a bottom turn is a sweeping, powerful move that enables the surfer to establish speed and direction for the ride. The bottom turn also establishes or re-sets the rhythm of turns to be completed during the course of the ride. Probably the most important turn in surfing as it sets up all other maneuvers.
  • Carve: Turns (often accentuated)
  • Caught inside: When a surfer is paddling out and cannot get past the breaking surf to the safer part of the ocean (the outside) in order to find a wave to ride
  • Cross step: crossing one leg over the other across the board (usually to make it to the nose)
  • Cutback: A turn cutting back toward the breaking part of the wave
  • Drop in: Dropping into (engaging) the wave, most often as part of standing up
  • Duck dive: Pushing the board underwater, nose first, and diving under an oncoming wave instead of riding it
  • Fade: On take-off, aiming toward the breaking part of the wave, before turning sharply and surfing in the direction the wave is breaking
  • Fins-free snap (or "fins out"): A sharp turn where the surfboard's fins slide off the top of the wave
  • Floater: Riding up on the top of the breaking part of the wave, and coming down with it
  • Goofy foot: Surfing with the left foot on the back of board (less common than regular foot)
  • Hang Heels: Facing backwards and putting the surfers' heels out over the edge of a longboard
  • Hang-five/hang ten: Putting five or ten toes respectively over the nose of a longboard
  • Off the Top: A turn on the top of a wave, either sharp or carving
  • Pearl: Accidentally driving the nose of the board underwater, generally ending the ride
  • Pop-up: Going from lying on the board to standing, all in one jump
  • Pump: An up/down carving movement that generates speed along a wave
  • Re-entry: Hitting the lip vertically and re-reentering the wave in quick succession.
  • Regular/Natural foot: Surfing with the right foot on the back of the board
  • Rolling, Turtle Roll: Flipping a longboard up-side-down, nose first and pulling through a breaking or broken wave when paddling out to the line-up (a turtle roll is an alternative to a duck dive)
  • Smack the Lip / Hit the Lip: After performing a bottom turn, moving upwards to hit the peak of the wave, or area above the face of the wave.
  • Snaking, drop in on, cut off, or "burn": When a surfer who doesn't have the right of way steals a wave from another surfer by taking off in front of someone who is closer to the peak (this is considered inappropriate)
  • Snaking/Back-Paddling: Stealing a wave from another surfer by paddling around the person's back to get into the best position
  • Snap: A quick, sharp turn off the top of a wave
  • Soul arch: Arching the back to demonstrate casual confidence when riding a wave
  • Stall: Slowing down by shifting weight to the tail of the board or putting a hand in the water. Often used to stay in the tube during a tube ride
  • Switch-foot: Having equal ability to surf regular foot or goofy foot (i.e. left foot forward or right foot forward), like being ambidextrous
  • Take-off: The start of a ride
  • Tandem surfing: Two people riding one board. Usually the smaller person is balanced above (often held up above) the other person
  • Tube riding/Getting barreled: Riding inside the hollow curl of a wave

Accidental

  • Axe/axed: A heavy wipeout, usually involving the wave's lip impacting directly on a surfer. Also called drilled, pummeled, guillotined etc.
  • Over the falls: When a surfer falls off the board and the wave sucks him or her up in a circular motion along with the lip of the wave. Also referred to as the "wash cycle", being "pitched over" and being "sucked over"
  • Rag dolled: When underwater, the power of the wave can shake the surfer around as if he/she were a rag doll
  • Wipe out: Falling off, or being knocked off, the surfboard when riding a wave

People

  • Bodyboarder: One who rides waves lying down on a bodyboard. Often beginners, although some bodyboarders, like Hawaii's Mike Stewart, are considered among the best surfers in the world.
  • Grom/Grommet: A young surfer
  • Hang-loose: Generally meaning "catch that wave" or "well done". This message can be sent by raising a hand with the thumb and pinkie fingers up while the index, middle and ring fingers remain folded over the palm, then twisting the wrist back and forth as if waving goodbye, see shaka sign
  • Kook: A wanna-be surfer of limited skill

The board

  • Airbrush: The tool used by an artist to spray color onto a surfboard. The airbrush is powered by compressor and sprays paint from a container (usually screwed or otherwise attached to the airbrush) out through a thin nozzle in a manner similar to an aerosol spray can
  • Alaia: A type of surfboard, made of wood and usually around six feet in length, used by Hawaiian commoners to surf prior to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in the late 19th century
  • Balsa: Light, porous wood used through the 1940s and 50s as a key core material for surfboard manufacture. Balsa grows only in Ecuador and must be imported to the USA; it became popular when laminating techniques allowed surfboard cores to be sealed from contact with water. By the early 1960s it had been largely replaced by polyurethane foam, but is still used for some big wave guns and collector pieces.
  • Bamboo: Can be used in thin laminar sheets as a replacement for fiberglass in the surfboard manufacturing process; i.e., Bamboo Surfboards Australia.
  • Blank: The original block of foam used to shape a surfboard. A blank often comes from a pre-shaped mold with a basic outline and rocker depending on the length and type surfboard being shaped. Usually made from polyurethane foam.
  • Bodyboard: A small soft foam board used primarily with swim fins, and ridden prone (occasionally drop knee). Originated with the Morey Boogie-board invented by Tom Morey in the 70's.
  • Bonzer: A surfboard design first invented by the Campbell brothers, Duncan and Malcolm, in 1971. Forerunner of today's popular single-to-double concave bottom shape.
  • Bottom: Bottom-The underside of a surfboard.
  • Bottom Curve: (see rocker)
  • Buckle: (see crease)
  • Deck: The upper surface of the board
  • Ding: A dent or hole in the surface of the board resulting from accidental damage
  • Fin or Fins: Fin-shaped inserts on the underside of the back of the board that enable the board to be steered
  • Leash: A cord that is attached to the back of the board, the other end of which wraps around the surfer's ankle
  • Nose: The forward tip of the board
  • Quiver: A surfer's collection of boards for different kinds of waves
  • Rails: The side edges of the surfboard
  • Rocker: How concave the surface of the board is from nose to tail
  • Tail: The back end of the board
  • Wax: Specially formulated surf wax that is applied to upper surface of the board to increase the traction so the surfer's feet do not slip off of the board

Clothing

  • Asymmetrical zippers: Wetsuit zippers with staggered teeth, invented to keep a tighter seal and let less water in. Common in newer zippered suits
  • Beavertail: Early wetsuit design in the '70s with a large flap affixed to the suit's lower back, wrapped under the crotch and secured in front. Designed to hold the suit in place, the innovation didn't really work and surfers took to letting the slab dangle. (Hence the term, "tail".)
  • Blindstitched: Seam that's glued together, then sewn halfway through the material so you don't see the stitching on the other side; generally on higher-end suits and considered flexible, fairly watertight and durable.
  • Board shorts: Shorts originally developed for aquatic sports, specifically for surfing
  • Rash guard: A close-fitting top for swimming or surfing, worn under a wetsuit, over swimwear, or alone
  • Wetsuit: Often referred to as "rubber", sometimes surfers also wear a neoprene hood and booties in cold conditions

Culture

  • Aloha: Hawaiian word used as a greeting, a send-off, a sign of affection and/or a wish for good fortune or mercy